In Stock Helms - Custom Helms
In Stock Helms - Custom Helms
In Stock Now!!!Click on each helm for more photos. |
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| Maximilian Close Helm $190 |
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1 Available Now! 01/11/2008 |
| Italian Full Helm $190 |
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1 Available Now! 01/11/2008 |
| Scottish Burgonet $220 Newer models include fully formed bevor. |
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1 Available Now! 01/11/2008 |
| Norman Nasal $220 |
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Backordered 01/11/2008 |
| Small Sallet $220 |
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Back ordered 01/11/2008 |
| Greek Corinthian Helmet $190 |
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1 Available Now! 01/11/2008 |
| Rapier helms are not only the height of safety, but also the height of fashion on the rapier field. Helms are not coming from the primary manufacturer ready for field use, but must be modified. Currently, we are offering 4 styles of converted helms. These have stainless perforated plate covering your face, with some steel/brass/leather armor plates covering peripheral areas. Each design meets Society and Midrealm minimums for a Rapier Helm. Each completely replaces your fencing mask. These Helms are UNPADDED. You will have to add padding to customize the fit to your head. These helms are MILD STEEL and will rust if not properly cared for. The interiors are painted, the exteriors are oiled. Maintain that finish. |
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We do custom work converting helms that are not listed as stock pieces.
If you already have a helm, look for it in the list below.
The following are modern reproductions available from a variety of internet based vendors. Most of these can be converted into SCA Legal Rapier Helms.
CAVEAT EMPTOR: not all helmets are made to the same standards! Your rapier helm MUST be at least 18ga steel to be converted. For reference sake, 16ga is THICKER than 18ga, and 14ga is thicker than 16ga. Helmets made from 20ga or higher steel are TOO THIN. When in doubt, ASK THE VENDOR ABOUT THEIR RETURN POLICY.
We will not under any circumstances work on a helm that is thinner than 18ga steel.
| Pic | Info | Custom Convert? | |
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15th - 16th cen Italian Close Helm, hinged visor requires full lining with perf plate as manufacturer's holes are too big, requires chinstrap. |
In stock |
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15th - 16th cen Maximilian Close Helm, hinged visor requires full lining with perf plate as manufacturer's holes are too big, does not require a chinstrap. |
In stock |
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16th cen Scottish Burgonet, popular throughout British Isles and Empire, requires chinstrap. If it includes a "bevor" then the faceplate can easily be made removable for dress wear. |
In stock |
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15th - 16th cen European Barbuta, prime example of Italian influence on continental armor, can be converted with a fixed faceplate, requires chinstrap. |
Yes |
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15th - 16th cen Milanese Sallet, hinged visor requires full lining with perf plate as manufacturer's holes are too big, requires chinstrap. |
Yes |
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Late period Lobstertail helmet, requires full face plate from brow to chin, around both ears, and a chinstrap. |
Yes |
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13th - 14th cen European Bascinet helmet, requires full lining with perf plate as manufacturer's holes are too big, requires chinstrap. |
Yes |
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Early period Norman Nasal, requires full face plate from brow to chin, around both ears, and a chinstrap. |
Yes |
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Early period Spangen Helmet, requires full lining with perf plate as manufacturer's holes are too big, requires chinstrap. |
Yes |
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Early period Sugarloaf helmet, requires full lining with perf plate as manufacturer's holes are too big, requires chinstrap. |
Yes |
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Padding your helm |
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I’ve been asked about padding rapier helms a few times, so I thought I’d post the more recent answer here. I’ll be adding diagrams soon, too.
There’s a big difference between the way a heavy helm and a rapier helm get hit, and therefore, how the need to be padded and constructed.
Heavy helms are getting their hardest hits from the side and top, while rules for face thrusts require a lighter blow. Therefore, heavy helms are most efficiently padded around the hat-line [or “crown” line might be more appropriate here], and with a chin-strap to balance the helm and, ultimately, keep it on your head. While armor inspection includes pressing the face plate to ensure there’s no contact with your face, armored helmets for the most part do not include the hard under-chin coverage that rapier masks require.
If you pad/strap a rapier helm the same as a heavy helm, then lean into the face, you may find that under-chin plate pressing into your neck above the gorget.
Add to that the fact that 99% of the blows to a rapier helm will be right to the face. Trust me, after 5 years of wearing one of the few rapier helms in our kingdom, we can assure you that people instinctively aim RIGHT for the eyes every time. This means that your padding has to handle forward impact much more than lateral or vertical. Even the new Cut & Thrust program’s side and top cuts to the head will not be so dangerous as normal rapier’s occasional hard shots… all because of that chin plate.
To handle forward impact, there's three routes to take: 1: Careful suspension: Pad the eyebrow line sturdily and rig your suspension to hold the helmet forward based on the chinstrap [which goes towards the back of your head at a lower angle than usual] so that forward pressure is transferred to the chinstrap and eyebrow padding. In this, you chinstrap would run from your chin to just below/behind your lower ear.
2. Transfer the force: Form your chin covering plate with a curved bar that reaches down parallel to your gorget [which is padded]. Forward pressure is transferred through the eyebrow padding and from the chin to your gorget.
3. Fencing mask style: our least favorite option.... Examine someone's head while their fencing mask is on, note the pressure points. Where a heavy helm is suspended around the hat-line, a fencing mask is suspended around the oval outline of the face. There's a brow band and padded chin rest that spread the force of impact to the brow and chin. This is why a light face thrust [our armored conventions] can have much worse effect on someone in a fencing mask than a heavy helm: force to the chin. You COULD pad your helm to rest against your face [our new Greek is padded that way] to distribute the forward impact through chin padding.
In all three cases, heavy eyebrow line padding is required.
Now, in our old Maximilian, ALL we had was eyebrow padding and 2 foam blocks in top above our ears. The foam blocks balanced the helm on our head [we have a wedge shaped head], and the gorget fit around the OUTSIDE of the helm neck, fixing its movement on our shoulders. That way, ALL the force of any blow went to our eyebrow line. we once ran full tilt face first into a tree [long story, woods battle] and aside from the loud noise, felt fine. Effectively, this is an example of option 2 above, transferring the force into other rigid parts [gorget and, well, forehead].
So, pad and test your rapier helm carefully!
Marco MKArmory
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